Short answer: Brita's Standard (white) and Longlast (blue) filters are not certified or designed for PFAS reduction. The newer Brita Elite filter (model OB06) is certified under NSF/ANSI 53 for PFOA and PFOS reduction, but it is the exception. If PFAS are your concern, make sure you have the right filter type or consider a more comprehensive system.
I get this question constantly, and I understand why. You bought a Brita pitcher because it felt like the responsible thing to do. You assumed a water filter removes the bad stuff. The problem is that "water filter" doesn't mean "removes everything" - and when it comes to PFAS (the "forever chemicals" now found in the blood of 97% of Americans), a Brita simply isn't built for the job. (I wrote a full Brita review if you want the complete picture of what it does and doesn't do.)
Let me walk you through exactly what Brita does and doesn't do, why it can't handle PFAS, and what you should use instead if you want to actually protect your family.
What Brita Actually Removes
Brita makes several filter types, and they remove different things. Most are not designed for PFAS.
Standard Filter (White)
Brita's standard filter uses granular activated carbon - essentially loose carbon granules that water flows through. It's the most basic form of water filtration, and it's designed for taste improvement, not contaminant removal. Here's what it's certified to reduce:
- Chlorine taste and odor
- Zinc
- Copper
- Mercury
- Cadmium
- Some particulates
That's it. The Standard filter is not certified or designed for PFAS reduction. If your main complaint is that your tap water tastes like a swimming pool, it does help. But it is not removing the contaminants that actually concern health researchers.
Longlast Filter (Blue)
Brita's upgraded filter goes a step further. In addition to everything the standard filter reduces, the Longlast filter also handles:
- Lead (NSF 53 certified)
- Asbestos
- Some pharmaceuticals
- Benzene
This is a meaningful improvement over the standard filter, and the lead reduction alone makes the Longlast a better choice if you're going to use a Brita. But the Longlast filter is not certified for PFAS reduction.
Elite Filter (Model OB06)
Brita's newest filter, the Elite (model OB06), is the one exception. It is certified under NSF/ANSI 53 for the reduction of PFOA and PFOS. If you specifically need some level of PFAS reduction from a Brita pitcher, the Elite filter is the only Brita option that has independent certification for it. That said, a pitcher with a single carbon filter still has limitations compared to a multi-stage reverse osmosis system.
What Brita's Standard and Longlast Filters Don't Remove
- PFAS / PFOA / PFOS (forever chemicals)
- Fluoride
- Microplastics (not certified)
- Bacteria or viruses
- Nitrates
- Total dissolved solids (TDS)
Why Brita Can't Remove PFAS
This isn't a knock on Brita - it's physics. PFAS molecules are extremely small and exceptionally stable. That chemical stability is literally why they're called "forever chemicals" - they don't break down in the environment, and they don't break down in your body.
Brita uses granular activated carbon (GAC). Think of it like a jar of marbles - water flows around and between the granules, and some contaminants stick to the carbon surface as it passes. This works well for chlorine and certain metals. But PFAS molecules are too small and too chemically inert to be reliably captured by loose carbon granules. They slip right through.
Removing PFAS requires one of three technologies:
- Reverse osmosis (RO) - Forces water through a semi-permeable membrane with pores so small that PFAS molecules physically cannot pass through. This is the most effective method.
- Activated carbon block - Unlike Brita's loose granules, carbon block is compressed into a solid mass. The water has to push through the block rather than flowing around granules, which creates much more contact time and much finer filtration. This is what Clearly Filtered uses.
- Ion exchange resin - Specially charged resins that attract and bind PFAS molecules. Often used in combination with other technologies.
Brita uses none of these technologies. That's why it can't remove PFAS.
What Brita's Own Website Says
To Brita's credit, they don't claim to remove PFAS. If you check their product pages, they carefully list only the specific contaminants each filter is certified to reduce. You won't find PFAS, PFOA, or PFOS anywhere on that list.
This is actually honest marketing, and I respect it. The problem isn't Brita lying - it's that consumers (understandably) assume "water filter" means "removes the bad stuff." When you pour water through a filter, you expect it to come out clean. But "clean" and "tastes better" are not the same thing.
If a filter company doesn't specifically claim PFAS removal with a certification to back it up, assume it doesn't remove PFAS. Period.
What Actually Removes PFAS
If you want PFAS out of your drinking water, you need a filter certified for PFAS reduction under NSF/ANSI 53 (for carbon-based filters) or NSF/ANSI 58 (for reverse osmosis systems). These standards now include PFAS reduction requirements, and the certification means an independent lab has verified the filter actually does what it claims.
Here are the options I recommend, in order of effectiveness:
1. AquaTru - Countertop Reverse Osmosis
$475 · NSF/ANSI 58 certified · Removes over 97% of PFOA/PFOS (certified minimum)
This is what I use for my family. Reverse osmosis is the gold standard for PFAS removal. The AquaTru sits on your countertop, requires zero plumbing, and is NSF-certified to remove 84 contaminants including PFAS, lead, fluoride, and microplastics. It's not cheap, but at $0.12 per gallon it pays for itself fast. Read my full review.
2. Clearly Filtered Pitcher - Carbon Block
$90–$100 · WQA certified for PFAS removal · Removes 99.5% of PFAS
If $475 isn't in the budget right now, the Clearly Filtered pitcher is the best affordable alternative. It uses a proprietary carbon block (not loose granules like Brita) that's certified to remove PFAS along with 365+ other contaminants. It's slower than the AquaTru and filters need replacing more often, but at $90 it's an excellent starting point.
3. Aquasana Under-Sink Filter
$160–$200 · NSF 53 & P473 certified
If you own your home and want a permanent solution, the Aquasana under-sink system installs beneath your kitchen faucet and provides on-demand filtered water. It's NSF-certified for both health contaminants (Standard 53) and PFAS (P473). Requires basic plumbing installation.
4. Epic Water Filters
$30–$70 · Select models NSF P473 certified
Epic offers several filter formats (pitcher, faucet, bottle) and some of their models carry NSF P473 certification for PFAS. Check the specific model you're buying - not all of them have the PFAS certification.
PFAS reduction requirements are now part of NSF/ANSI 53 (carbon-based filters) and NSF/ANSI 58 (reverse osmosis). If a filter doesn't carry one of these certifications with PFAS listed as a covered contaminant, you have no independent proof it removes PFAS. Always check before you buy.
What About Other Common Brita Concerns?
While I'm here, let me address the other questions I get about Brita all the time.
The Bottom Line
Brita is better than nothing if all you want is better-tasting water. It does reduce chlorine, and the Longlast filter handles lead. But if you're concerned about PFAS - and you should be, given that these chemicals are now found in the blood of 97% of Americans and have been linked to cancer, thyroid disease, immune suppression, and developmental issues in children - a Brita is not going to protect your family.
You need a filter that's specifically certified to remove PFAS. That means NSF/ANSI P473 certification, full stop. The AquaTru is what I use and what I recommend to anyone who asks. If the price is a barrier, the Clearly Filtered pitcher at $90 is a solid place to start.
Either way, stop assuming your Brita is handling PFAS. It isn't. And now you know what to do about it.